Abstract colour

This week Paul set the Photo Challenge, and he chose “abstract colour“. The short version is that we have to take some crinkled foil and shine coloured light on it to create an abstract sea of colour.

These are my two favourite attempts at the Challenge. The first one used a blue light source with a star filter on the front of the camera. The second one used two light sources of different colours.

Blue foil
Blue foil
While it has nothing to do with the Challenge, I thought I’d also publish this picture here as it is quite abstract. It’s a super-close up of a 2p piece, using my macro bellows. This image has not been cropped or magnified – this is how it came out of the camera.

2p coin

Hannah’s new glasses

Last time Hannah got some new glasses, I photographed them on the table. This time, she was kind enough to let me take her picture wearing them.

Hannah

While the flashes were set up, I asked her to point the camera at me (it’s about time I had a new profile picture!). I wasn’t planning to have my photograph taken, so I hadn’t changed into anything nicer than an old T-shirt or bothered shaving.

Jonathan

Fake magazine covers

This week’s Photo Challenge says we have to take a picture and turn it into a fake magazine cover using one of the many online generators. I’ve had a few ideas but rain has stopped me from shooting most of the them. Here’s what I’ve come up with so far.

They look bad in the square thumbnails, so click and use the arrow keys to view them in their normal size.

Testing a zoom lens

When I bought my 450D I started out with the standard 18-55mm lens, and added a 70-300mm to cover most of the usual range of focal lengths. But when I’m on lunchtime photowalks I don’t want to carry two lenses, nor repeatedly change between them. I often miss shots that need a longer focal length than 55mm, so I’ve been sniffing round some longer “everyday” zooms, such as the Canon 18-135mm and 18-200mm. They are pretty expensive – today’s prices are £287 for the 18-135mm and £404 for the 18-200mm, although cheaper offerings are available from Tamron and Sigma.

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS

Then I remembered that I have a 28-80mm lens that came with a 35mm autofocus SLR (an EOS 300, actually) that will fit my 600D. It’s not as “zoomy” as I had might have liked, but as I’d never used it before I thought I’d give it a shot and see if I actually used the extra bit of reach.

Canon EF 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 II

As it turns out, at lunchtime today I quite often used the extra few millimetres. However I was extremely disappointed with the lens optics. Sharpness at all focal lengths and apertures is poor, there is more chromatic aberration than a prism, and at short focal lengths there is more barrel distortion than an actual barrel. I know it’s just a cheap kit lens from the 1990s but it is significantly worse than the present-day kit lenses.

This was just my gut reaction from taking pictures for one hour and casually inspecting them on the computer later on. I haven’t done any scientific tests so I decided to check a few figures online. You can quickly find that it has been slated by professional reviewers and casual users alike.

The Canon EF 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 II Lens is very soft wide open – especially at 80mm. Stopping down at least 1 f-stop is required to get reasonable sharpness. Corners are soft at 28mm.

Even on a 1.3x FOVCF body, barrel distortion is obvious at 28mm until fading away at 40mm. Slight pincushion distortion is present from 60 to 80mm.

Some vignetting is exhibited with the aperture wide open. Color and saturation are not wonderful.

The Canon EF 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 II Lens has a focal length range that falls within the normal, general purpose zoom range. I recommend, if possible, purchasing one of the lenses suggested on the Canon General Purpose Lens Recommendations page.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-28-80mm-f-3.5-5.6-II-Lens-Review.aspx

In the meantime, I’ll stick with the 18-55mm kit lens, and save my pennies for one of the newer Canon zoom lenses. Below I’ve included my favourite few from today’s photowalk around Clifton. Don’t look too much at these photos for the faults I described above – I’ve mostly corrected the distortions, sharpened them, and where the colour fringes were too bad, made the pictures black & white! You also can’t get an accurate look at the low resolutions on this site, although they were clearly visible to me when inspecting the JPGs on my computer at “fit to screen” – not even zoomed in for pixel peeping!

Gate hinge
Clifton house
Front door and window
Church door
Victoria Rooms

Horseman 6×9 lenses

In theory, the Horseman 6×9 cameras such as the 970, 980, 985, VH and VH-R can take normal large format lenses – obviously with the caveat that the smaller film format means the angle of view is narrower for a given focal length.

However, these Horseman 6×9 cameras have small lens boards and can’t accommodate large shutters. Also the bellows are reasonably slim and lenses with large rear elements might not fit.

Komamura have compiled a list of lenses that are known good and known bad with these Horseman cameras. For some reason it didn’t show up in several searches and I don’t like the formatting, so I have recreated the information here. I’ve also presented the same information as a spreadsheet if you wish to download it or print it.

Horseman lenses

Known good

Make Name Comment Shutter
Schneider Super-Symmar HM120mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Schneider Apo-Symmar MC100mm F5.6 6x9cm format or smaller #0
Schneider Apo-Symmar MC120mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Schneider Apo-Symmar MC135mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Schneider Apo-Symmar MC150mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Schneider Apo-Symmar MC180mm F5.6 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Schneider Macro-Symmar HM80mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Schneider Macro-Symmar HM120mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Schneider Macro-Symmar HM180mm F5.6 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Schneider Xenar 150mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Schneider Xenar 210mm F6.1 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Schneider G-Claron 150mm F9 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Schneider G-Claron 210mm F9 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Schneider G-Claron 240mm F9 Telephoto Lens Panel #1 #1
Schneider Super-Angulon MC65mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Schneider Super-Angulon MC90mm F8 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
LF Topcor LF Topcor 90mm F5.6 Lens Panel Drilled for #0 #0
LF Topcor LF Topcor 150mm F5.6 Lens Panel Drilled for #0 #0
LF Topcor LF Topcor 180mm F5.6 Lens Panel Drilled for #0 #0
LF Topcor LF Topcor 210mm F5.6 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Nikkor Nikkor SW65mm F4 Lens Panel Drilled for #0 #0
Nikkor Nikkor SW75mm F4.5 Lens Panel Drilled for #0 #0
Nikkor Nikkor SW90mm F8 Lens Panel Drilled for #0 #0
Nikkor Nikkor W105mm F5.6 Lens Panel Drilled for #0 #0
Nikkor Nikkor W135mm F5.6 Lens Panel Drilled for #0 #0
Nikkor Nikkor W150mm F5.6 Lens Panel Drilled for #0 #0
Nikkor Nikkor W180mm F5.6 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Nikkor Nikkor W210mm F5.6 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Nikkor Nikkor M200mm F8 Lens Panel Drilled for #0 #0
Nikkor Nikkor M300mm F9 Lens Panel for Apo-Ronar 300mm #1
Nikkor Nikkor AMED 120mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Nikkor Nikkor TED 270mm F6.3 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Nikkor Nikkor TED 360mm F8 Telephoto panel #1 #1
Rodenstock Grandagon N 65mm F4.5 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Rodenstock Grandagon N 75mm F4.5 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Rodenstock Grandagon N 75mm F6.8 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Rodenstock Grandagon N 90mm F6.8 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar N 100mm F5.6 6x9cm format or smaller #0
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar N 135mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar N 150mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar N 180mm F5.6 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar N 210mm F5.6 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar S 135mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar S 150mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar S 180mm F5.6 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar S 210mm F5.6 Lens panel for Apo-Sironar-S 210mm #1
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar W 150mm F5.6 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Rodenstock Apo-Ronar 150mm F9 6x9cm format or smaller #0
Rodenstock Apo-Ronar 240mm F9 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Rodenstock Apo-Ronar 300mm F9 Lens panel for Apo-Ronar 300mm #1
Rodenstock Apo-Macro-Sironar 180mm F5.6 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Rodenstock Geronar 150mm F6.3 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar Digital 90mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar Digital 105mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar Digital 135mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar Digital 150mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar Digital 180mm F5.6 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Rodenstock Apo-Macro-Sironar Digital 120mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar Digital HR 105mm F4 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Fujinon Fujinon SWD65mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Fujinon Fujinon SW90mm F8 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Fujinon Fujinon W105mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Fujinon Fujinon W125mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Fujinon Fujinon W135mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Fujinon Fujinon W150mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Fujinon Fujinon W180mm F5.6 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Fujinon Fujinon W210mm F5.6 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Fujinon Fujinon A180mm F9 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Fujinon Fujinon A240mm F9 Telephoto Lens panel #0 #0
Fujinon Fujinon C300mm F8.5 Lens Panel for Apo-Ronar 300mm #1
Fujinon Fujinon T300mm F8 Lens panel C-0 Telephoto panel
Fujinon Fujinon T400mm F8 Telephoto Lens panel #1 #1
Fujinon Fujinon SF180mm F5.6 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Fujinon CM Fujinon W105mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Fujinon CM Fujinon W125mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Fujinon CM Fujinon W135mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Fujinon CM Fujinon W150mm F5.6 Lens Panel drilled for #0 #0
Fujinon CM Fujinon W180mm F5.6 Lens Panel with C-1 ring #1
Fujinon CM Fujinon W210mm F5.6 Panel for Apo-Sironar S 210mm #1

Known bad

Make Name Comment Shutter
Schneider Super-Angulon MC165mm F8 Due to #3 shutter #3
Schneider Super-Angulon MC210mm F8 Due to #3 shutter #3
Schneider Super-Symmar HM150mm F5.6 Due to rear lens #1
Schneider Super-Symmar HM210mm F5.6 Due to #3 shutter #3
Schneider Apo-Symmar MC210mm F5.6 Due to rear lens #1
Schneider Apo-Symmar MC240mm F5.6 Due to #3 shutter #3
Schneider Apo-Symmar MC300mm F5.6 Due to #3 shutter #3
Schneider Apo-Symmar MC360mm F5.6 Due to #3 shutter #3
Schneider Apo-Symmar MC480mm F5.6 Due to #3 shutter #3
Schneider Tele-Arton MC250mm F5.6 Due to rear lens #1
Schneider G-Claron 270mm F9 Length of monorail is short #1
Schneider G-Claron 305mm F9 Due to rear lens #1
Schneider Super-Angulon XL47mm F5.6 Can not be used at infinity #0
Schneider Super-Angulon XL58mm F5.6 Can not be used at infinity #0
Schneider Super-Angulon XL72mm F5.6 Due to rear lens #0
Schneider Super-Angulon XL90mm F5.6 Due to rear lens #0
Schneider Super-Angulon MC47mm F5.6 Can not be used at infinity #0
Schneider Super-Angulon MC75mm F5.6 Due to rear lens #0
Schneider Super-Angulon MC90mm F5.6 Due to rear lens #0
Schneider Super-Angulon MC120mm F8 Due to rear lens #0
LF Topcor LF Topcor 300mm F5.6 Due to #3 shutter #3
Nikkor Nikkor SW90mm F4.5 Due to rear lens #0
Nikkor Nikkor SW120mm F8 Due to rear lens #0
Nikkor Nikkor SW150mm F8 Due to rear lens #1
Nikkor Nikkor W240mm F5.6 Due to #3 Shutter #3
Nikkor Nikkor W300mm F5.6 Due to #3 Shutter #3
Nikkor Nikkor W360mm F5.6 Due to #3 Shutter #3
Nikkor Nikkor M450mm F9 Due to #3 Shutter #3
Nikkor Nikkor AMED 210mm F5.6 Due to rear lens #1
Nikkor Nikkor TED 500mm F11 Length of monorail is short #1
Nikkor Nikkor TED 600mm F9 Due to #3 Shutter #3
Nikkor Nikkor TED 720mm F16 Length of monorail is short #1
Nikkor Nikkor TED 800mm F12 Due to #3 Shutter #3
Nikkor Nikkor TED 1200mm F18 Due to #3 Shutter #3
Rodenstock Apo-Grandagon 35mm F4.5 Can not be used at infinity #0
Rodenstock Apo-Grandagon 45mm F4.5 Can not be used at infinity #0
Rodenstock Apo-Grandagon 55mm F4.5 Can not be used at infinity #0
Rodenstock Grandagon N 90mm F4.5 Due to rear lens #1
Rodenstock Grandagon N 115mm F6.8 Due to rear lens #1
Rodenstock Grandagon N 155mm F6.8 Due to rear lens #1
Rodenstock Grandagon N 200mm F6.8 Due to #3 shutter #3
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar N 240mm F5.6 Due to #3 shutter #3
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar N 300mm F5.6 Due to #3 shutter #3
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar N 360mm F6.8 Due to #3 shutter #3
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar N 480mm F8.4 Due to #3 shutter #3
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar S 240mm F5.6 Due to #3 shutter #3
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar S 300mm F5.6 Due to #3 shutter #3
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar S 360mm F6.8 Due to #3 shutter #3
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar W 210mm F5.6 Due to #3 shutter #3
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar W 300mm F5.6 Due to #3 shutter #3
Rodenstock Apo-Ronar 360mm F9 Due to #3 shutter #3
Rodenstock Apo-Ronar 480mm F9 Due to #3 shutter #3
Rodenstock Macro-Sironar N300mm F5.6 Due to #3 shutter #3
Rodenstock Imagon 200mm H5.8 Due to #3 shutter #3
Rodenstock Imagon 250mm H5.8 Due to #3 shutter #3
Rodenstock Imagon 300mm H5.8 Due to #3 shutter #3
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar Digital 35mm F4.5 Can not be used at infinity #0
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar Digital 45mm F4.5 Can not be used at infinity #0
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar Digital 55mm F4.5 Can not be used at infinity #0
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar Digital HR 35mm F4 Can not be used at infinity #0
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar Digital HR 60mm F4 Can not be used at infinity #0
Fujinon Fujinon SWD75mm F5.6 Due to rear lens #0
Fujinon Fujinon SWD90mm F5.6 Due to rear lens #0
Fujinon Fujinon SW105mm F8 Due to rear lens #0
Fujinon Fujinon SW125mm F8 Due to rear lens #0
Fujinon Fujinon W250mm F6.3 Flange Focal Distance too long #1
Fujinon Fujinon W300mm F5.6 Due to #3 shutter #3
Fujinon Fujinon W360mm F6.3 Due to #3 shutter #3
Fujinon Fujinon C450mm F12.5 Flange Focal Distance too long #1
Fujinon Fujinon C600mm F11.5 Due to #3 shutter #3
Fujinon Fujinon T600mm F12 Flange Focal Distance too long #1
Fujinon Fujinon SF250mm F5.6 Due to #3 shutter #3
Fujinon CM Fujinon W250mm F6.3 Flange Focal Distance too long #1
Fujinon CM Fujinon W300mm F5.6 Due to #3 shutter #3
Fujinon CM Fujinon W360mm F6.5 Due to #3 shutter #3
Fujinon CM Fujinon W450mm F8 Due to #3 shutter #3

First outing of the Voigtländer Vito II

Recently I took into my possession my grandad’s Voigtländer Vito II, dating from 1949. I loaded it with some black & white film and over a series of office lunchbreaks I took it for walks around various parts of central-ish Bristol – Clifton, Redland, and Cotham. All week the weather was overcast and the lighting was quite flat. Most of the photos I took have a “street” feel about them, which is not usually my favourite style of photography.

The camera was last used in 1992 at the latest (it was still packed up from when my grandparents last moved house) but it probably hadn’t been used for some before then. It was clean and appeared to work sufficiently well so I went out shooting. Now I’ve seen the film, it looks as though the shutter might be a little bit slow – quite a few of the photos are over-exposed. I’ll know for next time!

Using 35mm film in a 120 camera

You quite often see pictures shot on 35mm film that include the sprocket holes. To do this, you need a camera that takes bigger film than 35mm film – such as 120 film.

I’ve tried using 35mm film in my LOMO Lubitel before with reasonable success, except that the red window fogged the film in a few places, even though I taped it up. This week I decided to try again with my Mamiya RB67, which does not have a red window. The film would be kept in complete darkness, although it would need to be unloaded in a darkroom.

I followed this guide which explains how to modify standard 35mm film cartridges to fit in a 120 camera. It’s a pretty simple procedure, and basically involves chopping up an old 120 spool to make “plugs” that pad out the 35mm cartridge. The guide also explains how to wind the film back into a second 35mm canister if you want to unload in the light send it off to be processed, but I wound the film onto a bare 120 spool and unloaded in my darkroom.

Modified 35mm film with a 120 spool

The RB67 usually takes negatives that are 70×60mm in size. The 35mm film is 35mm tall, so when you string it across the centre of the RB67’s film gate, you end up with a wonderful 2:1 panoramic negative that is 70×35mm in size if you include the sprocket holes, and an even wider-format 3:1 70×24mm negative if you choose to crop out the sprocket holes. On this occasion I decided to leave the sprocket holes in the picture.

Unfortunately it seems my C-41 stabiliser has gone off, and it made sticky marks across the tops of most of the negatives. It doesn’t seem to be easy to remove without damaging the film. It wouldn’t dissolve in warm water and I don’t want to smudge or scrape it off. While the iPhone and Android users are bickering over Instagram, I’m in my darkroom doing it properly! 😀

Nonetheless, here are the best shots from the roll. I went up Troopers Hill in the evening, hoping to catch the sunset for the Photo Challenge, which is “into the light” this week. But with the “wrong” film in the camera, the film counter tells lies and I ran out of film before the sun actually got too low in the sky. Never mind – I know how to use the technique now, so I shall return another evening this week and shoot into the sun, through the hazy urban atmosphere.

View from Troopers Hill
View from Troopers Hill
View from Troopers Hill
View from Troopers Hill

Pictures of cameras

This week, the Photo Challenge was a surprise to me, because Paul set it. It’s a nice feeling, because I get to participate like everyone else. The Challenge was called the 5 Minute Photoshoot:

What I want you to do, is find a location (any location, it doesn’t matter. It could be your front room, your garden, a local park or the top of Everest if you happen to be in the area!) set your timer or alarm for 5 minutes.  Then start shooting!

Take as many different photos as you can in that 5 minute period.

When the timer goes off, stop shooting and put your camera away (no over running!)  When you get home, go back through what you’ve shot and show us the one you like best.

I decided to challenge myself by attempting an area of photography that I rarely venture into – still life. Once or twice in the past I’ve entered the Photo Challenge with a picture shot on film, and I managed it again this week. Shooting with a macro lens on film is hard because you can’t see how it looks, so I was pretty much flying blind. Here’s what I did:

  • I set up a mini studio area using a large piece of white paper and two flashguns
  • I gathered together some of my favourite cameras from my collection and piled them off to one side
  • I took a couple of test shots on a digital SLR to make sure the exposure was right in the centre of my lighted area, and then I put it away
  • I loaded a roll of Ilford FP4+ at ISO 125 into a 35mm SLR, I mounted a macro lens on it, set it in full manual mode, dialled in a shutter speed of 1/60s and aperture of f/8
  • I started the timer for 5 minutes and shot a whole roll of 36 frames, changing the subject camera every few frames

I hadn’t planned any particular shots in advance, so each shot was done in a very free and easy way. I just placed each camera on the backdrop in turn, and looked at it, trying to pick out an interesting feature. I rattled through 36 exposures in under 5 minutes so there wasn’t long, but I don’t think the photos look hurried.

I love the grainy look of the film, and I’m pleased with the subject matter and the way they’ve come out. Out of the 36 I took, I thought 15 were good enough to publish here – that’s a hit rate of 42% which is significantly higher than what I’d expect from shooting digital. There are even some picture here that I plan to print, frame, and hang on my wall.

I’m pleased with the lighting, too. No real disasters, but there are some bits of glare here and there that could have been avoided if I had been shooting digital – although not within the 5-minute window we were allowed for this Challenge!

However, I did learn some lessons from the experience:

  • Even if the cameras look very clean to the eye, the macro lens will see all kinds of dust you never even noticed
  • My film squeegee seems to be scratching films lately, so I decided to dunk the wet film in anti-surfactant, shake it and let it dry naturally in still air. Now it has water marks all over it. I think I need some new squeegee blades!
  • It’s hard to hand-hold a macro lens. It’s not about camera shake (the flash duration is so short) but holding it steady enough that the shallow depth of field falls in the right place. I wasn’t too far off with host of these, but some had to be discarded because the camera moved.

Negative area

There’s a really useful diagram on Wikipedia that shows the relatives sizes of different digital camera sensors. But it doesn’t include medium format film – so I made my own version.

Negative areas
Format Typical use Size Area Crop factor
APS-C Most consumer DSLRs and APS film cameras ~22x15mm 330mm² 1.5-16×
35mm Professional full frame DSLRs and all 35mm film cameras 36×24mm 864mm² 1.0×
6×4.5 Medium format cameras e.g. Mamiya M645 60×45mm 2700mm² 0.58×
6×7 Medium format cameras e.g. Mamiya RB67 & RZ67, Pentax 67 70×60mm 4200mm² 0.47×
6×9 Horseman 980, many box & folding cameras e.g. Kodak Brownie 90×60mm 5400mm² 0.40×

The crop factor is related to the field of view. To achieve the same angle of view as a 35mm camera, an APS-C sensor needs a shorter focal length while a 6×7 sensor needs a longer length. For more details, have a look at my article “focal length on different formats“.

The area is related to the resolution of the image. It’s not easy to tell exactly how many megapixels you get from film, but the resolution increases with area.