Most cameras, even compacts, have at least some manual settings that you can adjust if you want to explore what your camera can do. As I mentioned in my introduction, the three most common settings to play with are the aperture, shutter speed and ISO.
What the settings do
Let me go into a little more detail about these.
Setting | Low value (approx) | High value (approx) |
Aperture | f/3 – large aperture
|
f/12 – small aperture
|
Shutter speed | 1/4000s – short exposure or fast shutter
|
30s – long exposure or slow shutter
|
ISO | 100 – low ISO
|
1600 – high ISO
|
[1] Don’t worry – we will discuss filters in a later post.
How you can use the settings
So know you know a little bit of the basics, I can say something about the different modes on your camera.
Taking full manual control of the camera can be a little daunting and can produce unpredictable results until you are familiar with the camera. But most cameras semi-automatic modes known as shutter priority (or S for short) and aperture priority (or A for short). This allows you to set one value, either the shutter or the aperture, and the camera picks the other settings for you. Full manual is usually known as M.
This table shows what combinations of settings are available on my camera.
ISO | Shutter | Aperture | |
Auto | Either auto, or you choose | Auto | Auto |
S | You choose | You choose | Auto |
A | You choose | Auto | You choose |
M | You choose | You choose | You choose |
Examples
The best way to explain when you should choose a particular mode and what settings you should choose is by example – and experimentation, of course.
Blurred photo of moving cars on a sunny day
To achieve blur we need a relatively long shutter speed, and the challenge is compensating for this long exposure so the picture isn’t overexposed.
Mode | M |
ISO | Choose the lowest available ISO |
Shutter | Choose the shortest shutter speed that you can get away with while still achieving the desired blurred effect. Maybe 2-5 seconds. |
Aperture | Choose the smallest available aperture (largest F number) |
Notes | You will need a tripod, and probably an ND filter to limit the amount of light. |

Blurred photo of moving cars at night
This is actually much easier than blurred photos by day as compensating for the long exposure in low light conditions is easy.
I recommend… | I used… | |
Mode | S | S |
ISO | Choose the lowest available ISO | 80 |
Shutter | Choose a really long shutter speed – 10 or 30 seconds perhaps | 10s |
Aperture | Auto | Auto: f/10.9 |
Notes | You will need a tripod, and possibly an ND filter to limit the amount of light for very long exposures |

A closeup of a flower
The primary objective here is to open the aperture wide to decrease the depth of field and cause the background to be out of focus.
I recommend… | I used… | |
Mode | A | A |
ISO | Choose a medium ISO like 200. Adjust according for the daylight conditions. | 80 |
Shutter | Auto | Auto: 1/340s |
Aperture | Choose a fairly large aperture | f/2.8 |
Notes |

Sports and action
The object here is to keep the shutter as fast as possible, to freeze the action without blur.
I recommend… | I used… | |
Mode | S | S |
ISO | Choose a medium ISO like 200. Adjust according for the daylight conditions. | 80 |
Shutter | Choose a fast shutter such as 1/400s or less, according to the speed of the object you want to freeze, and the light conditions. | 1/450s |
Aperture | Auto | Auto: f/7.2 |
Notes |

The best thing you can do is practice, and try new things. Chances are you’ll go to your local motorway bridge and take tens of photos. Some will be good, and some will be awful. But you’ll quickly learn what works for your camera.
If you can’t remember what settings you used to take each picture, you can find out on your computer later. If you’re on Windows, right-click on the image file, click Properties and click on the Details tab. Scroll down to Camera you’ll see the details, like in the screenshot below.

Next time, we will go over how to choose and use filters in your pictures.